Nylon filament for FDM printers

[zxys001]

Anyone printing Nylon on their FDM printers?

https://www.matterhackers.com/articles/ ... with-nylon

[Frederick_Law]

Not yet. There are CF filled nylon that is pretty strong.

[mattpeneguy]

I printed some test pieces, but really it was just to test if I could do it. What are you looking at doing with it? Any specific need for the material?

[SPerman]

I tried printing some test pieces, but my CR-10 isn't designed for those type of temperatures.

[zxys001]

I printed some test pieces, but really it was just to test if I could do it. What are you looking at doing with it? Any specific need for the material?

Kewl!
I want to make some more robust functional parts to test.
Otherwise, for final.. I'll fall back to having the higher res MJF parts made.
https://www.rapidmade.com/hp-multi-jet- ... 3d-printer

[mattpeneguy]

I tried printing some test pieces, but my CR-10 isn't designed for those type of temperatures.

Upgrade the power supply to a Meanwell and get an all metal hotend and you should be good to go. Here's a cheap all metal hotend that I used: https://gulfcoast-robotics.com/collecti ... d-printers

[mattpeneguy]

Kewl!
I want to make some more robust functional parts to test.
Otherwise, for final.. I'll fall back to having the higher res MJF parts made.
https://www.rapidmade.com/hp-multi-jet- ... 3d-printer

Nylon is tough to print and you really have to monitor the water content of the plastic.
Have you tried the PLA+ that they are making now? Not trying to dissuade you from experimenting, I just didn't think there was enough good to bother with Nylon. I tried much harder to get PETG working, but even gave up on that.

[SPerman]

I wasted over a year messing with an all metal hot end. I never could solve the heat creep problems on a long print. I also struggled getting the bed over 100C. Maybe that wasn't necessary, but given how bad nylon likes to warp I wanted every advantage I could get.

[Frederick_Law]

Nylon, like ABS, need enclosure.
I'm printing 240C HTPLA.
I heat bed to 110C to heat treat them for 10-20 minutes.

[mattpeneguy]

I wasted over a year messing with an all metal hot end. I never could solve the heat creep problems on a long print. I also struggled getting the bed over 100C. Maybe that wasn't necessary, but given how bad nylon likes to warp I wanted every advantage I could get.

Yeah.....100C bed and 260+C on the hotend would over stress my 500W Meanwell. I really like the builds that have the beds only controlled from the board and the bed gets current directly from 110V.
Nylon is a good material in theory, but it's difficult to print and has so much difficulty with water, you really have to have a specific application to bother with it...and they have all these new materials out that I'd rather use.

[SPerman]

There was a company producing a product called PETG+ for a while. It was still stringy, but printed much better than PETG with very similar properties. Unfortunately they went out of business several years ago and no one else has copied the chemistry that I am aware of.

[zxys001]

Thanks for the responses everyone!
Yeah, nylon may have it's challenges..